Galveston

Galveston, oh Galveston, I still hear your sea winds blowin'….

In 1969, Glenn Campbell's "Galveston" climbed the charts to the #4 position, capturing the hearts of beach and sea lovers everywhere. Galveston, written by Jimmy Webb, described "waves crashing" and "sea birds flying in the sun." A more recent Bruce Springsteen hit, "Galveston Bay," chronicles the life of Le Bing Son who left Vietnam to settle his family in Galveston's "delta country." Le Bing Son dreamed that he might steer a shrimp boat through "the channel and cast his nets into the water." Galveston native Nanci Griffith sings of water "as sweet as wine when your heart's rolling home in the wind" in her song "I Wish it Would Rain."

Sun, wind, and water. Certainly these have always been key elements to the island city's draw.

In the late 1800's, Galveston reigned as Texas' leading seaport and commercial center. Banks, shipping companies, and cotton brokerages lined the Strand, Galveston's principle street. Today, many of these stately Victorian buildings have been restored. Some have been resurrected as businesses and tourist establishments, while others stand as homes reminiscent of days replete with cobblestone streets and horsedrawn carriages. Tours through historical districts with exquisite Victorian architectural design such as the Bishop's Palace are popular attractions. The city's resurgence derives chiefly from this restoration effort--and, of course, the thirty-two miles of sandy beaches don't hurt.

One particularly inviting area is Stewart Beach Park, located along the seawall. Uniquely different restaurants boasting the best of the sea invite the beachcomber to dine in cut-offs or elegant evening wear--both are acceptable on the seawall. After dinner, Galvestonians or visitors may elect to board a ferry for a scenic water tour or rent a horse for a beach excursion. The Galveston Duck Tour is a unique way to see Galveston Island, traveling in a vehicle designed during World War II to traverse land and water. With just a flip of a switch, the wheels disappear beneath the belly of the "duck" and the trip that began on the streets of Galveston continues on its waters.

Springsteen's Le Bing Son isn't the only one who has ever dreamed of fishing in Galveston. Party boats at Pier 19 set sail at 7:30 a.m. and trawl the waters until the same time in the evening. Of course, Le Bing Son's boat probably wasn't equipped with electronic fish finders or an air-conditioned lounge; but whatever the boat, deep-sea fishing is at its best in Galveston.

In her I Wish It Would Rain lyrics, Nanci Griffith reminds listeners that the waters of the bay can be troubled as she makes plans to "ride a ways down to Galveston where the hurricanes blow." Indeed, Galveston lost everything to the hurricane of 1900, including 6000 of her residents. The island was lashed by brutal winds that produced tides up to twenty feet high. But you know how Texans are--they rose to the challenge of cleaning up the debris and engineered the raising of the city seventeen feet behind the ten-mile-long seawall. Museums house tributes to the success of the effort. Of note is the Lone Star Flight Museum with its collection of historically significant aircraft actually restored to flying condition.

Transportation options are many. The southwest's largest railroad museum not only has preserved the relics of past steam engine travel, but also offers a ride on a model Union Pacific Train through historic downtown Galveston. The Galveston Flyer, the city's trolley, runs between the seawall, the Strand, downtown, and the Port of Galveston. Those who are out for a stroll in the sea breeze may opt to "walk the streets" of Nanci Griffith's town, where, as the lyrics of her song point out, neighbors call each other "by name." Around every corner there are the tanned and smiling faces of beach lovers of all ages. Nothing captures the spirit of the ocean more than a child splashing along the shoreline in pursuit of Campbell's elusive seabird.

Moody Gardens invites visitors to step inside the Rainforest Pyramid to view thousands of tropical plants, exotic fish, birds, and butterflies. As everything in Galveston is imminently connected with the water, Moody Gardens offers white beaches near blue lagoons and a cruise aboard the Colonel Paddlewheel Boat.

Entertainment choices abound in Galveston. Nanci alludes to her "two-step shoes" in her lyrics for a very good reason--the Texas two-step. Dance clubs feature country artists who set the rhythm for everything from the Cotton-Eyed Joe to the Electric Slide. At the other end of the music spectrum, Galveston boasts the magnificently restored Grand Opera House where Sarah Bernhardt, Paderewski, and Anna Pavlova performed. The Grand has been designated the official Opera House for the State of Texas.

Postoffice Street is the center of many special events throughout the year, including the Grand Kids Festival in April and the ARToberFEST in October. Outdoor musicals are presented during the summer months of June, July, and August. But the most well-known seasonal celebration centers around the memory of Charles Dickens, when Galvestonians dress in Victorian costume and celebrate Dickens on the Strand.

Whether it's a stroll down the beach or a two-step across the dance floor, Galveston offers a gamut of history, art, ocean, and coastal enticement. So, the next time you imagine that you hear the"sea winds blowin'," join Nanci, Bruce, and Glenn and "dream of Galveston."

Elaine Ernst Schneider is a freelance writer and music teacher. She has been writing since high school and has published articles, songs, and childrenšs work. Presently, Elaine is a curriculum author for Group Publishing.