by Eric Miller
The tourism promotion folks in Philadelphia have spent a lot of energy trying to find ways to get visitors to sleep over. I'm going to assume you don't and suggest a number of ways to spent time seeing a lot. We're not focusing on the major attractions here, like the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall and the big museums. More, each attraction can only be a minor time suck?so you'll still get to see a lot without springing for a hotel.
Masonic Temple (One North Broad Street)
One of Philadelphia's often overlooked treasures is the Masonic Temple. Located right across from City Hall, it's a wonder this place has never been the setting for a movie (or maybe it has?) Built in 1873, guided tours explore the mysteries of the Masonic Temple, which is a magnificent example of architecture, art and history.
Visitors are led through splendid corridors and majestic lodge halls with their impressive collection of paintings, statuary, stained glass, murals and exquisite furnishings enhanced by the beautiful richness of the building's architectural features. The Mason's may have achieved a certain status in the arts of a more concrete nature, but haven't mastered the art of notification via web site--we encountered a "no tours today" sign out front. Don't rely on the web site, call ahead. In the meantime, the link above provides some 360 degree video tours.
Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts (118 North Broad Street)
If you're into primarily modern art, you might skip this one. But it's history people go to Philadelphia to experience, right? The odd Victorian architecture from 1876, the year of the Philadelphia Centennial exhibition, makes this building a work of art in itself (note the open steel beams built into the design).
The galleries upstairs include two Benjamin West allegorical paintings, on that was cut from its frame and rescued from a fire in a previous building. Portraits by Charles Wilson Peale, Gilbert Stuart and others lead into later paintings by Winslow Homer and George Bellows, continuing up to the present day with works by current-day artists at the academy. That's right, the Pennsylvania Academy is also a school and if you're lucky a docent may lead you into the drawing studios on the first floor. A new annex next door offers student galleries and a gift shop.
Transit Museum (1234 Market Street)
RClose to the Reading terminal, which operated as a train station into the 1980s (and now houses a great urban market), is the SEPTA Transit Museum. The museum documents the history of Philadelphia's mass transportation systems and includes a PCC Car in the lobby. While you could sit in this car that doesn't move, you could also head out for a ride on the Girard Avenue line that features a restored PCC Car.
Macy's (1300 Market St)
With one about everywhere these days, Macy's wouldn't seem like a must-stop on a tour of a new city. This Macy's, however, was the home to Wanamaker's Department Store. Once inside you'll encounter a huge bronze eagle and a marker in the floor of where President William Howard Taft stood to decorate this department store of national importance.
The store has been the site of a number or orchestral concerts over the years. The building also houses the largest operational pipe organ in the world. It was originally displayed at the 1906 St. Louis World's Fair and was first played in its present location on June 6, 1911, at the exact moment when British King George V was crowned. If you time your trip to Macy's for noon, on most days you can hear it.
Powel House (244 S 3rd St)
Martha and George Washington's 20th wedding anniversary was celebrated with a dinner and dancing in the Powel House ballroom, although locals can't seem to verify that Martha attended. In any case, the Powel house makes for a walk right into Philadelphia history, with the small price of admission.
Built in 1765 by merchant and businessman Charles Stedman, the house was purchased by Samuel Powel in 1769 at the time of his marriage to Elizabeth Willing. Samuel Powel served as the last mayor of Philadelphia under the Crown and was the first mayor of the city after the creation of the United States. Mayor Powel and his wife were well known for their hospitality and frequently entertained such notable guests as George Washington, John Adams, Benjamin Rush, Benjamin Franklin, and the Marquis de Lafayette. Several of the rooms inside, while recreated, are not original. One can be seen in the re-opened American Wing at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. I haven't found the tour to be crowded and thus it provides an opportunity for personal attention from guides.
Rittenhouse Square
One of America's great urban parks. A seemingly perfectly designed space with lots of benches and pleasing sculpture. If you want to learn more about this place, stop in the Barnes and Noble store. Inside the door there's a good selection of local books. This is where I discovered the location of Alexander Cassatt's townhouse on the square. Cassatt was president of the Pennsylvania Railroad, the painter Mary Cassatt was his sister. Unfortunately the townhouse was demolished in the 1970s to make way for the Rittenhouse Hotel, which apparently now has a lounge named after Mary Cassatt.
Where to Eat
You might time this for your trip to the transit museum. Head into the Reading Terminal Market across the street for an amazing array of food options including Profi's Creperie. Another suggestion is Di Bruno's on Chestnut and 18th, where you'll find a variety of sandwiches and pasteries in an inviting atmosphere. For a more formal dining option, try La Viola at 253 S 16th St or the Warsaw Café at 244 S 3rd St.
How to Get There
From New York there are a number of convenient ways to get into Philadelphia. New Jersey Transit connects from Penn Station with a change at Trenton for Philadelphia's 30th Street Station. MegaBus and Bolt Bus provide low-priced options from Mid-Town or Chinatown starting at $8 each way. 2000 New Century lines operated out of Chinatown provides a $20 round-trip option with buses running every thirty minutes. Your arrival point, Philadelphia's Chinatown, is located right by Reading Terminal Market, and it's a short walk to most attractions, so there's no need to bring a car.
If you do work your way into a slumber, try the Warwick Hotel at 1701 Locust St.