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A Well-Hidden San Francisco Gem Revealed--for Women Onlyby Carli Schultz KruseOsento is a hidden delight tucked away in the Mission District in San Francisco. For a handful of dollars, women can truly soak their cares away, for as long as they like.
A small sign lists the hours, 1 p.m. until 1 a.m., and another cautions that the entire premises are a smoke free environment. Yet another cautions against the use of strong perfumes or scents within the building, so as not to aggravate those with allergies. The doorbell rings when pressed, a chunky, clunky ding. Eventually, the door will open, and you will be judged. Judgment is simple. If you are a woman, you are let in; if you aren't, then, this isn't the place for you. What a wonderful thing it is, sometimes, to be a woman. Sento, in Japanese, means bath. Public baths are common in other parts of the world, from Tokyo to Marrakech, but are not found readily in American culture. Bathhouses in the United States often end up being a cruise and sex scene, instead of a communal refuge from the world to relax and scrub away the day's worries. "O," in front of a word in Japanese, is an honorific placement; therefore Osento is an honorable bath. Beyond that simple definition, Osento is a mix of Japanese and Finnish bathing customs, offering a hot tub, a cold plunge, wet and dry saunas, and gathering places where customers can socialize and relax together. Upon entering Osento, a customer pays the door fee, which is set on a sliding scale and has no time limit. A bather may stay for an hour or five hours, and the price doesn't change. Towels are rented for a small fee, or you can bring your own. A dollar deposit will get you a key for a locker, and once shoes are removed in the outer entryway, entry is allowed. A decorative noren a Japanese style fabric hanging used as a curtain, hangs between the entryway and the main room. A few mats lie on the floor, with pillows and sheets, and quiet music floats through the dimly lit, warm-feeling space. The last time I visited Osento, one woman was writing on one of the mats, several books surrounding her. Another slept nearby. Adjoining this room is a small kitchen, where filtered water is always available, and a small tray holds a small pile of cut up limes for squeezing into your cup. A fridge is usable by all, for storing perishable items while soaking. From here, the bathroom is the next stop, as a shower is required before entering the hot tub or any of the saunas. A bottle of Dr. Bronner's peppermint soap is here for washing skin and hair, and if this shower is occupied, there is another outdoor shower in the backyard open area for washing down before soaking, for scrubbing off afterwards, or any time in between! A large wooden door connects the bathroom and the main room to the hot tub, a deep-set, dark blue tiled affair that dominates the room. The blue colors and tiles remind one of a small indoor swimming pool, but this water is set at 104 degrees Fahrenheit, and is only three feet deep. Gentle jets relax the muscles, and the tub has a wide tile seat that goes around three of the four walls, allowing a 5'7" woman to soak up to her shoulders while sitting. Various small tubs and pitchers are within reach for pouring water, and a traditional Japanese bathing stool sits next to the tub, for anyone who wants to wash off, Japanese style. A large window is cut into the wall, open to the outdoors, for a view of the sky and a breath of fresh air. The tub room is the only passageway to the outside areas, so it is the most social area as well, with many women coming and going, talking and laughing. Outside, beneath a small slice of San Francisco sky, are two saunas and a cold plunge pool. The saunas are small wooden buildings that look like giant wine casks set on their sides, one wet, one dry. A wooden bucket with water and a giant wooden ladle sits in the wet sauna, so that the women inside can add more water to the heated rocks when needed. There is usually a small vial of white flower oil around, which is the only scent allowed to be poured into the waiting water, to mix into the steam. It clears the lungs and tingles the skin if applied directly; just a couple drops will do the trick. Many women bring Epsom salts with them, to rub into the skin. This draws more water out to the surface, and opens the skin to empty itself and take in the heat and steam. Women periodically roam in and out of the saunas, either to take a refreshing dip in the unheated cold plunge, to wander up the stairs to the deck, or to return to the hot tub room and beyond. Finally, there is a small room that is accessed from another door in the hot tub room, the quiet room. Mats are available on the floor, against the walls, bunk bed style. Here, women may relax or sleep, and there is no speaking allowed. It is a true place to rest in silence. For an added price, massages are available, also at a reasonable price, compared to other places. Renting a hot tub in most hot tub environments in the city can cost from $13 to $16 per hour, while a sliding scale of $10 to $15 at Osento will allow you to stay all day, and even have in and out privileges. The one thing about Osento that is considered a drawback by some, is that there is no clothing allowed. None. Once you are in the main room, all your clothes must go in your locker. Osento's reason for this is so that no dyes or fabrics get caught up in the hot tub, or affect the water in the tub. And for everyone there, of course, it is not an issue. For those who are hesitant, due to shyness or body image issues, it is a hurdle, but one worth trying to overcome. There is no scene at Osento, and though it is a big hit with the lesbian community, there is no place for sexual conduct. According to some of my male friends, this is where any all male attempts at an environment like Osento in San Francisco break down, as this is not a rule to which the guests at those places adhere. At Osento, there are young women, old women, large women, small women, all sorts of nationalities and body types, and no one truly appears to be judging anyone else. It is a safe place to be nude and among other women, with no judgment, laughter, or visible sexual tension. In short, there is no reason to feel fear. Group nudity is not a big deal at other same-sex bathhouses in the world, and it is not one at Osento either. The rewards, for those who are ill at ease, far outweigh the initial feelings of nervousness. Osento is a community space, with notes on a bulletin board of upcoming events, apartments for rent, plays, garage sales and women's group meetings. Women can relax and enjoy themselves, and enjoy others, for an incredibly cheap price. Osento is no-frills, but it is clean and pleasant, and one always feels terrific for the rest of the evening after emerging once again into the city life of San Francisco, just a front door away from this small oasis from the every day.
Additional Information:Osento
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Tucked away on a block on Valencia Street, amongst a sparsely stocked car parts store, a small health foods grocery, and residential homes, is an unmarked oasis for the women of San Francisco. Simple black letters over the door of what looks like any other residential two flat building declare its presence. Osento. It's set back from the street, so one doesn't notice the dozens of lipstick kisses on the white painted door until standing on the front steps.