December, 2001: Third Street between Fairfax and La Cienega
Part 2: the second 4 blocks.In this, the second installment on Third Street in Los Angeles, we will continue our trek eastward toward the permanent Farmer's Market at the corner of Fairfax. This is where there are more vestiges of the old Third. Long-time jewelers, manicurists and tailors still practice their trade amongst the newer clothing, accessories and home furnishing shops.
Denim Doctor
7383 Beverly Blvd (Recently moved)
Los Angeles, CA 90036
www.denimdoctors.com
323/964-0080
Positioned among these more traditional stores is the six-year-old Denim Doctor. Unique in its beginnings it remains true to the name by bringing new life to your old denim. Why? Because, let's face it, we all have our favorite pair of jeans that are as close, familiar and faithful as the family dog. So, with their "invisible stitch" technique, your ol' blues are given a new lease on life.
The store does more than stitch and alter. It also sells vintage jeans and accessories. Denim Doctor keeps contacts--called "pickers"--all over the country looking for the finest and most unique denim pants, shirts, and jackets. It sells belts and leather accessories, and boasts one of the most complete collection of vintage corduroy to be found anywhere.
Though part-owner Sean Patrick looks young, he is not without experience in vintage. The son of an antique collector, he has himself been collecting for almost as long as he can remember. He recalls, "as a child I collected toy cars. I would always buy two of the same one. One to play with and one to keep." He started his career at 17 with a vintage clothing store in Orange County and, after working at Denim Doctors for several years, finally bought into the store with founder Zip Stevenson. His passion for vintage clothing is evident. "I see a pair of jeans and I wish I knew its history. Who wore them and who were they? That's why I love what I do." In fact, he can look at a pair of old jeans and, from the stitching alone, tell you when they were made.
Note: Mr. Stevenson is currently (26 September 2002) buying back Denim Doctors from Mr. Patrick.
Décor Deluxe
8026 W. Third Street
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323/653-5105
A few doors down from Denim Doctor is Décor Deluxe, run by another Orange County expatriate. Holly Thomas deals in vintage furniture. Not simply used stuff. She hand-picks every piece in her small store and restores or refinishes every one. She recovers lamp shades and, with help from her mother, creates custom home accessories. Holly's background in theatrical set design, and her techniques are self-taught and all her own. She turned away from the entertainment business to be able to work on her own terms in a fashion she likes. By the way, in the classic Third Street style, Denim Doctor's Patrick and she have become friends.
notNeutral
6824 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90038
323/692-0015
www.notneutral.com
We go now from the absolutely old to the ultimately new. notNeutral had its grand opening the Thursday before this issue posted. (Editor's Note: Though founded on Third St., in May of 2003 it moved to the Melrose Ave. address.)
The brain child of Julie Smith and architect Mark Rios, this modern home furnishings shop used to be Rios Associates' conference room. Fronting Third Street and decked out in furniture drawn up by this small architectural and design firm, it would inspire many passers-by to poke their heads in and ask, "Is this a store?" A few years of this, and a eureka moment put two and two together. Rios Asociates does design work, passers by like their style, why not design things to sell to passers by?
Julie Smith, long-time designer and architect at Rios and president of the new retail concern, notes that "we didn't want [notNeutral] to be part of the rhetoric…we made our designs to be fun and free." Dishware patterns are designed collaboratively by any Rios employees who express an interest. Blanks are imported from Poland, and the patterns are fired locally in Santa Maria, California. This does more than give notNeutral custom inventory. It gives them freedom to change patters as often as they like.
Choosing a fairly neutral pallet, their strong, witty vernacular translates into elegant table settings that speak to the carefree boldness inside everyone. notNeutral offers more than dishes of course, but I'll let you visit and explore for yourself.
Sofi
8030-3/4 W. Third Street
Los Angeles, CA 90048
323/651-0346
5:30--11:00pm 7 days. Lunch 11am-3pm Mon-Sat
Sofi is a restaurant and a woman. The restuarant is a classic "Olympian" (a.k.a. authentic) style Greek restaurant opened 18 years ago by Greek citizen, mother, and wife "Sofi." Sofi had no formal training as a chef, but she, with help from her husband, opened with a menu of recipes from the homeland (some from passed down from her mother). Sofi returned to Greece a few years ago, but sold her pride and joy to two employees--a waiter and a bookkeeper. This duo has maintained the essence of the restaurant and its menu.
Dolmades-Yalanzi (stuffed grape leaves) are spicy and flavorful, the Mousaka boasts generous layers of eggplant, seasoned ground beef, and a bechamel-like sauce, and the 
Briam vegetarian stew is a hearty plate-full of peppers, mushrooms, potatoes, eggplant, green beans, carrots, and onions in a tomato-oregano broth. If by some miracle you are not too full, sample their Karidomelo. Walnuts and Greek thyme honey mixed into impossibly rich, thick, creamy Greek yogurt.
The dining room feels open and airy, but not as airy as their secluded patio nestled away from the traffic and noise of Third Street. On the right L.A. evening, in the right season, sitting on the patio with a glass of ouzo or retsina (wine flavored with pine sap), you might think you were back in the old country with Sofi bustling in the kitchen.
Doughboys
8136 West Third Street
Los Angeles CA 90048
323/651-4202
www.doughboys.net
[Editor's Note: Doughboys' eat-in locations have both closed, though some bakery goods are available by email order. Please click on the website link above for more information.]
When I first came across a Doughboys loaf seven years ago, it was at a farmer's market. Warm and delicious, the country-style loaf had a well-developed crust and a light but textured center. Fantastic. But who was Doughboys? I never knew until a year later when I was driving down Third Street and a sign caught my eye: "Doughboys Bakery". Was it the same Doughboys from the farmer's market? It was!
A small room with 2 tables and a bar treated walk-ins (and the occasional sit-down customer) to loaves, rolls, and espresso. It was a sleepy bakery then. But, five years ago owner Frank Waldman expanded to a café/restaurant format, and Doughboys was "discovered." Now it's a fixture of the neighborhood, and you have to get up early to beat the crowds to breakfast.
Mr. Waldman realized that the most important word in baking is freshness. Everything on the menu is made to order. Baked goods are made at least daily. No long-simmering pots unless the recipe calls for it. Yes, that means a little bit of a wait for a bowl of steel cut oatmeal, but it's worth it. On my last visit I enjoyed a fresh muffin made with tart apples. My colleague went for a big bowl of steaming polenta with figs, pine nuts, dates and honey. And we both had a huge, steaming latte. At 7:30am it was a great way to start the day! Doughboys is the perfect place to punctuate your shopping with a meal.
There are many other places to visit that I couldn't get to. For example, Fils, designs and makes all the clothes they sell. Also, swing by L.A. Trattoria (8022 W. Third), a Neapolitan restaurant with solid Italian fare and a great rooftop dining room. If you travel with your dog, or live nearby, visit Chateau Marmutt (8128 W. Third Street). Lacking a dog, I didn't visit, but from its looks it probably has a great story in it.
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For the next couple of articles, we'll take a break from Third St. and visit other LA neighborhoods and their singular offerings. But we'll be back--we just can't stay away from Third St. for too very long!
You can reach Stephanie Morey at www.ginamorey.com.
Photographs ©2001 R. Risemberg except for the picture of Doughboys, which is by the author.