October, 2001: Third Street between Fairfax and La Cienega
Part 1: the first 4 blocks.
This "locals ought to know" stretch is one of the best the city has to offer, so be ready to spend the entire day wandering in and out of
the shops covering this roughly 11 block expanse. Visitors, forget Rodeo Drive, turn your nose up at the Sunset Strip. Further, there's
no need for you to visit the faux pas of those pre determined "walking streets" and their predictable array of chainstores. Just come
to Third St.
This is all L.A. As you wander this shopping epicenter take special note of each shop. Don't just look. See. Notice what's in it. Touch
things and hold them in your hand. Feel their weight or texture. Try things on. Take a deep breath and notice the smells and aromas,
and talk to the proprietors. 
Because you will never see that store's likeness anywhere else. It is absolutely unique. On the entire
stretch I believe that there is not a single representative of any nation-wide chain (with the exception of the venerable Baskin Robbins
31 Flavors, whose presence, given how hot it's been lately, I would never begrudge). Nor do I think that there is more than a couple of
establishments with even a sister location near by.
Most of the stores are staffed by the proprietors themselves, or their relatives. A few shops have two or three employees. In any case, I found no disaffected, vapid youths staring with lidded gazes from behind the counters. In fact, as you wander this area you will begin to notice the intense interest and remarkable pride these people have in their offerings. They love the stuff and they are excited to talk about it. It is their passion, and, in many cases, it is their craft. In fact, every time I would ask, "Why this kind of shop?" the response would invariably be an odd silence that seemed to say, "Look at it. How could anyone not?"
There is one more thing that all these establishments have in common. Quality. Of course. After all, passion ultimately yields quality. Uniqueness, passion and quality explain why, even knowing that each place is unique, I still vaguely recognized several of them. Don't follow me? Look on their walls and in their windows. There you will find small mementos, proudly displayed, of national recognition. I have not seen a street more densely populated with stores written up by "In Style" magazine (the current uber-popular lifestyle periodical), as well as by "W", "Gourmet", cable TV's "Home & Garden" channel, "Angeleno" magazine, "Zagats," "Bon Appetit," the Los Angeles Times, and on and on. "Unique" doesn't translate into "curio" here. It translates into thoughtful execution of a special idea.
The high level that these proprietors operate at do not make them unapproachable. Exactly the opposite. Every one I met was open, friendly, and comfortable to be with. They love to reach out to the community. Even though the shops close around 6pm, during the summer and the holiday season, they put together special evenings when the neighbors are invited to come and shop, have wine, and chat.
I'm not going to ruin the experience of your next visit by running down every store on the stretch. I'm going to cover a few representative places--representative of the level of quality and commitment only, of course. I am also not going to attempt to cover this stretch of LA in one issue. With that in mind, here are the first four blocks:
La Bella Cosa (8364 W. Third Street)
This four year old furniture and accessory shop is staffed by the owner Brian Adler, his mother, a baby, and two dogs. Mr. Adler has created a luxurious selection of custom and limited edition pine furniture peppered by beautiful hand crafted imports. Many of the pieces are reproductions of centuries-old pieces. Mr. Adler knows that the pine furniture is unique because he builds each one in his own shop from reclaimed lumber (lumber salvaged from former barns and other structures, which brings a warmth and earthiness to each piece). The imports come from Mexico, Asia and China, Spain and many other places. Every item in the store exudes beauty and quality--even the wall art behind the counter, made by artist Luther Gerlach, who employs the 150-year-old kallitype and platinum photographic processes to make images that are 20"x24" contact prints. That means that he totes around a camera that holds sheets of film 20"x24" big!Chado Tea Room (8422 1/2 W. Third Street)
A nine-year resident of this stretch of street, Devan & Reena Shah's tea room offers a mind-boggling selection of teas from around the world. ("Mind-boggling" is a mathmatical term that translates into seven hundred sixteen.) Actually, the retail store offers only 316 different teas. The other 400 are distributed around the country. They have smoked black teas from China; "First" and "Autumnal" flush Darjeelings; teas from the Singampatti rainforest region; morning, afternoon and evening teas; South African Red Bush teas…all these, and socks to steep them in. My mind spins!
Chado also offers light, fresh lunch fare and the option for High Tea. I spent quite a while speaking with manager Tekeste (a.k.a. "Tek"). Not intentionally, as I had a lot of ground to cover that day. I usually end my interviews with, "Is there anything you'd like to add?" When ever I did, Tek would spin around and present me with another fragant container of dried leaves to smell. Rooibos Bourbon with its hint of vanilla, Chrysanthemum tea made of nothing but tiny, delicate, dried, whole flowers; a Chamomile with orange peal, a tea with rose petals in it. And I loved every whiff. Finally I asked my question and he poured me a cup of tea and smiled. Its aroma made me misty with delight, it taste was flavorful and clean. It was Jasmine Pearls--each leaf individually hand-rolled into pearl-sized balls from the finest jasmine flowers buds just before they bloom. Finally I left--but I'm coming back.
The Cook's Library (8373 W. Third Street)
Any visit to Third Street requires a stop at two very special stores. One is The Cook's Library. It is an institution in the city--in fact for passionate cooks across the country. Though originally a producer for commercial television programs, proprietor Ellen Rose has always had a passion for cooking and cookbooks. Her kitchen is full of them. Once, over a decade ago, her daughter said, "Mom, you have enough cookbooks to open a store," and the light bulb went on. Now, her Cook's Library is considered one of the finest resources for books on food, recipes, cooking styles, and cooking implements. Besides merchandising an excellent selection from larger publishers, she scours the world for hard-to-find and unique titles from small, unknown publishers. To help you sort through this inventory, she and her staff, managed by former pastry chef Tim Fischer, guide and advise customers with pleasure and gusto. Every employee of the store either has a professional restaurant background or years of experience with cooking. Come to Third Street, then come to The Cook's Library. Ms. Rose notes that there used to be seven cooking dedicated book stores in the United States. Thanks to the various chains of mega-bookstores, that number is down to two. A shop in New York, and The Cook's Library.
Traveler's Bookstore (8375 West Third Street)
The other required visit is Traveler's Bookstore. In fact, the two establishments are next door. Propriator Priscilla Ulene brings to one place 14,000 titles on and about travel. And some cows. Where the unmentionable oversized mega-bookstores have one shelf on a travel destination, Traveler's has an entire bookcase. One fills such shelves by casting one's net wide. Ms. Ulene brings in books from around the world. And that is just the physical books. There are still the virtual volumes found in the heads of her and her employees. Everyone either was or is an avid traveler. One employee mused that between them they have probably been everywhere in the world. Far flung travels probably makes one willing to help those in need--the level of helpfulness here stretches to include research. Not that they will write your itinerary. Exactly the opposite: they would not take that pleasure from you. But if you call looking for books, say, on lighthouses, they will have a stack waiting for you by the time you arrive. Don't feel bad by asking, either. Said one employee, "We love working here."
Iron Maiden (8403 1/2 West Third Street)
Iron Maiden is a store dedicated to custom made cast iron furniture and accessories. I've said it for a previous establishment and the same holds true here: proprietor Dahlia Strong knows they are unique and custom-made pieces because she and her crew make every one. Her wonderful selection of ironworks is a pleasure to see after the factory-made pieces you run into around town. Each piece is individual. She will also gladly sit with you to design and make custom pieces. Ms. Strong has a passion for iron. You see it in her eyes when she talks about it. How it is rigid but, under heat, it becomes this malleable, pliable medium for expression. Seven years ago it was only herself heating, shaping, making each piece. At first she had one storefront. Now she has a crew and has expanded into the next unit. As I said, passion yields success.Plastica (8405 Third Street)
Its business card defines the word "plastic" as "formative, creative"--and creative it is. This whimsical shop of fresh (and sometimes plastic) products shares a wall with the more weighty Iron Maiden. They are perfect neighbors in a way. In fact, I found Owner Carla Denker sitting and chatting with Iron Maiden's Dahlia Strong. A relative newcomer, Ms. Denker brought Plastica to Third Street a little over a year ago and presents a nice selection of imported domestic products including her own (just started) label.
Joan's on Third (8350 West Third)
All this shopping must be accompanied by a meal. For lunch, a great choice might be Joan's on Third. A well-established Los Angeles catering shop, this little retail "market" is a rare thing in L.A.: a gourmet deli. For example, before Joan's I had once flown home from a business trip in Sacramento with a small cup of fresh (not tinned) anchovies.I could find anchovies in Sacramento more easily than I could in Los Angeles. Now, there's Joan's. (Don't turn your nose up at the little fishies! The tinned thingies you may have had an altercation with in your past are nothing like the fresh stuff. Try them. I know a cookbook store that probably has some recipes.) So inviting is Joan's, with its little olive tree in front surrounded by small tables and its small airy store, that one feels drawn inside. Once there, choose from a selection of prepared appetizers and antipasti, or a freshly made sandwich. This day I relaxed at a tree-adjacent table with a grilled rosemary maple chicken sandwich on a baguette and an espresso. Need a fresh gift? Try a Joan's gift basket.
Another lunch spot is the nearby Who's On Third. The style is common in Los Angeles, but that doesn't mean it's not good: coffee shop fare with an LA flair. Fresh, slightly euro, with lots of espresso drinks. Bask in LA's warmth, nosh on a bran muffin and latte or eggs and toast, thumb through the newspaper with your sunglasses on, chat with the next table, and feel like a local.
By dinner time you may want something more formal. There are some excellent selections. Cynthia's is good choice. Its ebony-clad corps of waiters doesn't do it justice. It is not a cucina de trends. I recommend their fresh corn fritters. If you are a hipster, try Linq. It has been written up fairly well in the Times. I can't speak for it personally, though, because, not being a hipster, I haven't been. The sign is cool, though.
Third Street is truly a destination. It is a great place to hang out and is central to almost everything. In fact, I recommend that visitors base themselves here during their stay.
The Beverly Plaza Hotel (8384 West Third Street) is here for you. Not anywhere near as daunting as the name, this small (98 rooms), independently owned and operated hotel features French-inspired rooms, a pool, a spa, and covered valet parking. But these are not the two best features. The first is that it is right there, on Third, of course. The second is Cava, the restaurant. The food critics call it Spanish, but I know first hand that it is Caribbean-Spanish. Either way, the food is fresh, well prepared, and quite good. Besides a full menu, Cava offers tapas (Spanish for "little dishes") and good sangrias. Upstairs the club features live Latin music. The Beverly Plaza Hotel rates start officially at $209, but I was encouraged to call and ask for their regular specials.
That's it for part 1. As I said, I came nowhere near covering all the shops worth visiting in this, the first 4 blocks of this unique strip. So, come on over for a visit. See for yourself!
You can reach Stephanie Morey at www.ginamorey.com.