by Jen Westmoreland Bouchard
Considering it had been recommended to us by several friends with discerning taste in food, I was very much looking forward to our dinner at the Grand Café last weekend. As consummate foodies and regular Minneapolis diners ourselves, we tend to be picky (which is not always a good thing in a dining partner, but tends to be a positive trait in a restaurant reviewer). Therefore, it is rare that I use the word "perfect" to describe a meal, but I am at a loss for a better adjective to explain my entire dining experience at Grand Café.
Nestled between two retail businesses on the primarily residential Grand Avenue, Grand Café's unpretentious, yet thoughtfully-curated décor and lovely outdoor dining area make it both welcoming and intriguing. The accessible menu and comfortable atmosphere make it the kind of place that's perfect for a romantic dinner for two, a gathering of friends, or a nice family meal out.
We were greeted at the door by the owner, who set our table outside and chatted with us about wine and travel. Our server arrived soon after with homemade herbed crackers sprinkled with rock salt, served on a vintage silver platter. The diverse yet focused menu immediately revealed Grand Café's "farm to fork" philosophy. Their meats come from 1000 Hills Farm, Fischer Farms, and Wild Acres Farm, and the produce hails from a variety of local sources (a list of purveyors can be found on their website).
We ordered the "mélange" appetizer, a copious grouping of olives, marinated artichokes, red pepper romesco, spreads, cheeses, and cured meats accompanied by flaky flatbread on which to enjoy them. Our server helped us navigate the thorough wine list and recommended a French gris à gris rosé from Domaine de Figueirasse (dry and robust) for a reasonable price.
Impressed by our first course, we were excited to move on to our entrées: roasted chicken and duck confit, served with vintage Languiole steak knives (which always take me back to the many meals I've enjoyed in France). The juicy, flavorful and perfectly roasted breast of free-range chicken with crispy skin was served over homemade chicken sausage, sautéed chard and pan-fried spätzle with natural juices. The duck confit, served atop creamy polenta and lively spring onions, was surrounded by a rich raisin sauce.
After devouring these and finishing our bottle of wine, we unfortunately could not squeeze in dessert, although the tempting offerings and the apropos Erma Bombeck quote ("Seize the moment. Remember all those women on the Titanic who waved off the dessert cart") almost made us change our minds.
Throughout our meal, we had been eying a candy shop across the street and asked our server about it. She assured us that Sugar Sugar carries some of the best vintage and fine candies in the city. When our check came, it was tucked under a dessert wine glass full of an assortment of these sweet wonders--the perfect (there's that word again) end to a phenomenal meal. You can bet we'll be back.
Grand Café
3804 Grand Ave. S.
Minneapolis, MN
(612) 822-8260
