by Eric Miller
A statue of Christopher Columbus stands looking over a settlement with ties back to the time of the explorer himself. Not long after his landing, this tropical paradise would be the center of a golden age of piracy, which financed the thriving town of Nassau,
attracting settlers from around the globe. Then after the American Revolution, many loyal to the British Crown fled the newly formed United States to New Providence island.
While there are many island resorts with sun and sand, New Providence island, and the town of Nassau, offer a refuge from what's expected at an island resort. But the resorts are there too, making it an ideal destination for seekers of warm sun, uncompromised luxury, varied history and diverse culture.
Less than an hour by plane from Florida, Nassau is located on New Providence island, the most populated of the 700 or so islands that make up the Bahamas. At the airport New Providence looks sparse, the landscape windswept and the windy two lane roads where cars bear to the left leading to a string of resorts, including five known collectively as the Great Resorts of Nassau. But from there, it's a short drive or bus ride to the center of Nassau.
West Bay Street is bustling, with shoppers browsing through open markets where locals sell handicraft items, shells and souvenirs. Colonial buildings, grand and ordinary, line the streets, left from a time when the nation of islands fell more closely under rule by the British Crown. A statue of Queen Victoria stands outside the chambers of Parliament buildings, still actively watching over the streets now lined with retail stores of every description.
Other early structures including a cathedral, an obelisk, and early commercial buildings with balconies hovering over the foot traffic, maintain the charm known for centuries by residents and visitors to Nassau. The statue of Columbus stands atop stairs leading to the Governors House, where a single Bahamian military guard watches over the quiet premises.
While the island nation has distanced itself from the Crown, the European presence is still persistent. But despite cars driving on the left side of the road, Nassau is also close to the United States, and in ways other than geography. Many of the voices heard on the street make old Nassau seem like a distant suburb of New York. And--not surprisingly--many of the tourists, and a few of the residents are from Florida, which is closely connected to the Bahamas economically. And one of the most widely recognized commercial symbols anywhere, Disney's mouse ears, competes with the statue of Columbus and hovers over the harbor perched atop a docked cruise ship.
Constantly in the historical shadow of Europe and the commercial shadow of the United States, residents--known as Bahamians--market their own culture to visitors in the busy, dark and crowded "straw market."
A large part of Bahamian culture focuses on a preparing for a colorful festival known as Junkanoo. But the increasing cost of the costumes has drawn another outside influence in the way of corporate sponsorships of families who compete for prizes during the December celebration.
Even though the beaches and clear water are enough to bring visitors to the Bahamas, there are clearly other reasons to visit Nassau and New Providence. Caught between the New World and the old, the island and town will continue to grow in its role as a popular resort destination, as others discover what lies beyond the beach.
